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Features to look for in a Construction Light Tower

Recently, I’ve been asked to help identify the best light tower for a specific job.  I figured it would be good to give a quick run down of the types of light towers available and their best uses.  I hope this helps point you in the right direction when picking out a light tower for your next job.   

Before sifting through the many light towers available online, you should ask yourself three things. 

1. How much area will you need to light?

2. Where will you be using the light tower?

3. Do you have access to power? 

I have separated the towers into 3 groups, small, medium, and large.  They correspond to the lighting needed, the job size, and access to power.

Small Light Towers: Working in residential areas where excessive lighting can cause neighbors to get upset, the quartz light tower is your answer.  Commonly called quartz lighting because of the type of material the bulb is made of, these light towers provide light to areas of 600 to 1,200 sq ft. Quartz flood lights have towers 6 to 8 ft in height with 2 to 4 adjustable lights and are very easy to use. They require little setup, are simple to maintain, cost effective, and only require a 120v power connection, making them perfect for indoor applications too.  As well, they have specialized versions that can be used in paint booths or other fume related applications that could cause explosions.  These are referred to as explosion-proof lighting. 

Medium Light Towers: Jobs that are slightly larger and away from residential areas or to light up small sports fields, selecting a Halide Metal Light towers would be appropriate.  These provide lighting to areas from 10,000 sq ft up to 80,000 sq ft, while still being powered by a standard 120v power source.  The most common type of light tower in this group is sometimes called a cart tower.  A cart light tower has a telescopic tower that expands to 12 ft and reduces to less than a 6ft over-all height and is mounted to a two-wheeled cart to make it easier to move around the work site.  They have 2 to 4 lights that are either fixed or adjustable to provide the most effective lighting.  While these lights are generally manual in operation, they still hold up to most weather conditions are easily transported.   

 Large Light Towers: For the serious job, you’ll need to invest in a diesel powered light tower.  The light towers are commonly mounted to a trailer frame rated for highway driving and tow easily behind your work truck.  Powered by liquid cooled diesel generators, these light towers are built to provide light for roadwork, open mines, and oil/gas drilling fields.  These workhorses provide 40 to 80 hrs of lighting on one tank of diesel fuel and can light 5 to 70 acres, with the use of a 28 to 60 ft telescoping tower.  Built to withstand wind of 65 mph and most weather mother nature will throw its way it is worth the investment. 

Whether your job site is your own home or the freeway corridor, selecting the right light tower for the job will keep you out of the dark.

Earth Augers Save Time Digging Post Holes

There's no question, an earth auger can save you a huge amount of time during a large project that requires many post holes. Unless you're digging only a few holes, a power auger is the only way to go. An auger can move your daily post digging number from 15 to 40+, not to mention avoiding the brutal work of digging by hand. Keep in mind, however, that digging with an auger can still be difficult and in an ideal situation, you'll have at least two men doing the work to help manage the high torque these machines run with.

Before you begin digging with any power auger, remember to use safety gear and to check for power, phone, and water lines to ensure that digging is as safe as possible. Do a good job of measuring and lining out your holes, while you're checking for hazards, so there is no need to modify your plans during the middle of the project.  

Generally, you'll be looking to use either a one-man power auger or a two-man earth auger, either way, check that the auger and auger bit are capable of matching the width and depth that you require for your project.  Standard auger drills come in sizes ranging from 4 inches to 12 inches and anywhere from 36" to 48" in depth. Extension rods are also available if you need them; check to make sure the auger bit and extension rod you choose are compatible with the auger power unit. Larger diameter and length may be tougher to handle, consider the man-power you may need to work effectively throughout.

Operating an auger can be hard work, so prepare yourself for the amount of torque that will be running through this machine--Brace yourself! It's best to dig primer holes with a shovel or post hole digger to allow for proper alignment. Once you begin moving soil, you'll get a feel for the power of the machine. For best results and the most efficient work, dig a few inches at a time and then throttle back to remove dirt.  An entirely submerged auger drill is hell to remove, so as much fun as it is to drill the depth of the entire bit all at once, restrain yourself; unless you plan on entering the World's Strongest Man competition! When using an extension rod to dig, dig first with the non-extended auger drill to ensure optimal control.  Also, if all you need is a few more inches it's often easier to dig the final part of the hole by hand.

Final tips:

Dig a pilot Hole.  This allows for an easier start with the power auger, by giving you somewhere to rest the unit while you start it.

Clear the hole often.  Clearing the hole will prevent you from having to dig your auger out of a 3-foot pile of dirt.

Advance slowly.  Advance the throttle slowly while you start to ensure your hole is straight.

Turn the engine off.  Turning off the engine while you dig out dirt or move to the next hole will reduce the risk of accidental injury.

Never Start with extensions in place.  Controlling a six-foot auger bit at head-level reduces your control, increases risk of injuring, and is just downright dumb. Start with your normal auger bit and ad the rod once the hole is beyond the drill's depth.

Remove powerhead to dislodge augers.  If your bit gets stuck, be sure to remove the powerhead before attempting to dislodge your drill.  Use a pipe wrench to turn the auger out of it's hole.

If you have specific questions or concerns about augers or digging post holes, feel free to leave your comment below!

Some Guidelines for Building ADA Accessible Curb Ramps

As a part of the ADA Accessibility Guidelines for Buildings and Facilities, there are certain specifications and requirements that curbs and ramps must meet in order to meet code standards.  Below, I discuss the different elements of these standards and the specs that they must meet.

ADA Accessible ramps must be provided wherever a curb meets an accessible route. Accessible routes are qualified as having a minimum 36 inch clearance. The slope of the ramp must be built with the least possible incline to allow for easier accessibility to all users, with a 1:2 slope being the maximum slope. The sides of a curb ramp must have flared sides if it is located where pedestrians are able to walk across the ramp or if it is not protected by hand or guardrails; the maximum slop of a flare is to be no more than 1:10.

Built-up curb ramps should be built so that they do not protrude into vehicular lanes of traffic, cars, bikes, or otherwise. Accessible ramps need to be located or protected to ensure they cannot be blocked by vehicles parking or driving. Any raised islands within a crosswalk must be accessible through installed ramps, the island must have at least 48 inches of clear space available for pedestrians in the area of the island intersected be the crosswalk.

The surface of ADA accessible ramps must be stable, firm, and slip resistant. If the surface of the ramp is separate from the concrete surface, it may be up to .25" above the ramp without edge treatment. For surfaces more than .25" vertical above the ramp must be beveled to accommodate access.  Detectable warnings should be used to ensure safety.  Detectable warnings are surfaces with raised truncated domes which must contrast visually with the adjoining surfaces (typically concrete). The detectable warning must extend the full width and depth of the curb ramp.

These are most of the required specifications of ADA accessible curb ramps, however, it would be wise to check the Federal Register, Vol. 56, No. 144, pages 35632-35633 for in depth descriptions and exact measurements for requirements.  If you have any questions, feel free to comment below.